free pattern


Chunky Cable Hat

by Emily Wessel

This simple cable hat knits up quickly, for a luxuriously soft and smooshy result – perfect for last-minute gifts.

Yarn: 1 skein of Malabrigo Chunky (100g/104 yds)
Gauge: 12 sts/4″ in sockinette stitch using larger needles
Needles: 6.5mm and 6.0mm (US 10 1/2 and US 10)
Notions: Cable Needle & Darning Needle

You can download the pattern from my website [CLICK HERE]

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OTHER PATTERNS YOU MIGHT LIKE:

Tofino Surfer Hat  Whitecaps Hat  Easy Peasy Toque

So I had decided that as part of my knitter’s development it was time to knit a shawl.  Note, this is not a stole, but an authentically ‘get your granny on’ triangular shawl.  Though this undertaking involved the obvious danger of looking ridiculous, I had seen many photos of hip young people wearing shawls such as this like scarves, and figured I could pull it off!  So I dyed some recycled cashmere, and eventually cast on!  Laminaria (a free pattern from Knitty.com) was an absolute joy to knit, and I got through it in 4 days!  I took the ferry from Vancouver to Victoria and got a lot of knitting time in both ways, so that helped.

My husband and I had to sleep on the couch one night so that I could block the shawl out on our futon!!  The yarn is approximately fingering weight, and I used a 5mm needle, and it required approximately 500 yds.

unblocked shawl

HANDSPUN FINGERLESS GLOVES:

These are really easy, fast and satisfying. They’re a great project that takes very little yarn, which is good for a beginner hand-spinner.

Size:
These were designed to fit a fairly average female hand measuring 7 1/2″ to 8″ around just above the thumb.
Yarn:
Any yarn that will allow you to make gauge will do. I’ve used a combination drafted hand-spun single that is 11 WPI (wraps per inch), and looks like somewhere between DK and sport weight. I used about 110 yards, but your yardage may vary depending on the row gauge you get.
Gauge:
4.5 sts / inch, 8 rounds / inch in stockinette stitch on US #6 needles (or size to obtain gauge)

I knit these gloves on a long circular, using the magic loop method. They could just as easily be knit on double pointed needles.

HAND:

CO 30 sts.

Place marker at start of round, and work 15 rounds (@2″) in *K2, P1* rib. (30 sts)

Knit 10 rounds knitting all stitches. (30 sts)

To increase for thumb, alternate these 2 rounds 4 times:

Increase round A: K2, inc 1, K to last 2, inc1, K2
Increase round B: Knit

Now there will be 38 sts on the needles.

Now knit around to last 3 sts. Drop live yarn, and using scrap yarn, knit the next 3 stitches (to end of round), then the first 3 stitches of the next round, so you have 6 stitches knitted in the scrap yarn. Then transfer these 6 scrap yarn stitches back onto the left-hand needle, and pick up the live yarn, and knit over these scrap yarn stitches again, using the live yarn. Finish this round knitting straight. (38 sts.)

To decrease after thumb, alternate these 2 rounds 2 times:

Decrease round A: K2tog, Knit to last 2, SSK
Decrease round B: Knit

Now there will be 34 sts on the needles.

work 10 rounds (@ 1 1/2″) in *K2, P1* rib. (34 sts)

Bind off using decrease bind off:
K2tog through back loops, put the stitch created back on LH needle, then K2tog tbl again, … etc.

THUMB:

pull out scrap yarn, and put the 11-12 live loops created onto needles.

1: With new yarn, starting by working across bottom loops (closest to the wrist), knit 6, knit up 3 stitches in gap between bottom and top stitches, then knit across 6 top stitches, then knit up 3 more stitches in gap between top and bottom stitches. (18 sts.)

2: K10, K2tog, SSK, K4 (16 sts)
3: Knit

Knit 7-8 more rounds even, then BO using decrease bind-off (described above).

FINISHING:

Knit second glove same as the first. Weave in ends, block if you find it necessary, and enjoy!!

Another dorky and uninspired post title… unfortunately the naming mojo just rarely visits me.

Went home to Vancouver Island, my place of origin, and my parents graciously took me out on a spectacular sailing trip, and didn’t complain when I just knit and didn’t want to crank on winches much. The weather was SO much better than the weatherman had warned, and we went to Rebekah Spit on Quadra Island, and saw HUGE stinging jellyfish washed up on the beach, and ate well. It was a cool but sunny fall breeze when we sailed back on Sunday, and it only started to pour once we got back to the house!

Well the February Lady Sweater is coming along beautifully… But I’m kind of afraid I might run out of yarn prematurely…. What to do? The yarn is 100% cashmere that I recycled from a thrifted sweater, and painstakingly (yeah, it took 2 attempts) dyed into a very happy shade of blue. I do have another recycled cashmere that I could use with it, but no way could I match the colour… but maybe I’ll have enough after all that.

This is a little scarf that I’m working on with the yarn I hand spun from hand-dyed polwarth roving [see dyeing in previous post here].

It is a very satisfying little project, perfect for the bus and skytrain, and yes, nerdiness abounds, I’ve even begun to knit while walking, I’m embarrassed to admit. It’s just such a great way to relax after a hard day of work!

It’s only 18 stitches wide, knit on US#7 (4.5mm) needles, and the pattern is one that uses multiple wraps to create elongated stitches; it’s a really easy way to make an open, lacy fabric. I really love it as a way to show off this yarn, because the color shifts turn into fairly wide stripes, and the thick/thin inconsistency of the yarn looks nice. I’m not sure if I should block it after it’s done or not…

I started out knitting simple uniform rows 8 row repeat: <K 3 rows, then 1 row wrapping each stitch twice, then K3 more rows, then 1 row wrapping each stitch 3 times>

Then I got bored of that, so I switched to a pattern which creates ‘open’ rows that are shaped like eyes and hourglasses:

R 1-3: K all sts
R 4: K2, (Knit, wrapping twice) 2 times, (Knit, wrapping 3 times) 3 times, (Knit, wrapping 4 times) 4 times, (Knit, wrapping 3 times) 3 times, (Knit, wrapping twice) 2 times, K2 <18 sts total>
R 4-7: K all sts
R8: (Knit, wrapping 4 times) 2 times, (Knit, wrapping 3 times) 2 times, (Knit, wrapping twice) 3 times, K4, (Knit, wrapping twice) 3 times, (Knit, wrapping 3 times) 2 times, (Knit, wrapping 4 times) 2 times
REPEAT THESE 8 ROWS

I’m very pleased with the result – I’m 2/3rds of the way through my 170 yards of yarn, and it will be very

lovely when it’s done!


rubysweater-1

By Emily Wessel

This pattern is inspired by the excellent top down raglan pattern by Fran at martian mischief.

FITS:
Infant 6-12 months
Underarm = 19.5”, sleeve length = 8”

GAUGE:
5.25 st/inch (21 st = 4”) on US 5 needles in stockinette stitch

NOTE: if working with a different gauge, just make sure that neck hole is large enough (stretches to 18”) and just work to the right underarm dimension, and the sleeves will automatically be wide enough.

NEEDLES:
US 3 circular or DPN’s (for ribbing) and US 5 circular or DPN’s (for body)

The pattern starts at the neckline and works down, increasing along the raglan ‘seam’ lines, until there are enough stitches (at the underarm) to join the front and back panels together, and split off the arms and then work down the front and back and arms from there to the waist / wrists.

If a larger sweater is desired, simply continue the pattern for longer before splitting arms off, and this will result in a larger underarm dimension, and wider sleeves. Then simply knit to the desired length in body and sleeves.

YARN: I used Knitpicks Bare Superwash Merino, which is the undyed version of their Knitpicks Swish DK yarn. It is a DK weight yarn (246 yards/100 gram hank). The sweater used 1 hank plus a very small amount more (300 yards would definitely be enough). It is very soft and spongy, and the washing instructions suggest Machine Washable/Tumble Dry Low. After knitting, I hand dyed it using Wilton’s Icing Dyes (leaf green, plus a little bit of red)

rubysweater-centrelace

LARGE LACE PANEL (center front and back):

Over 21 stitches (knit on the round)

R1: P2, K3tog, K2, yo, K1, yo, K3, yo, K1, yo, SSSK, K4, P2

R2 and all even rows: P2, K17, P2

R3: P2, K10, yo, K1, yo, K1, SSSK, K2, P2

R5: P2, K4, K3tog, yo, K1, yo, K3, yo, K1, yo, K2, SSSK, P2

R7: P2, K2, K3tog, K1, yo, K1, yo, K10, P2

R8: As R2.

Repeat these 8 rows for pattern.

SMALL LACE PANEL (along arm):

Over 5 stitches (knit on the round)

R1: K2tog, yo, P1, yo, K2tog through back loops

R2: Knit all stitches

Alternate these two rows.

* I find that to make even yo’s with this pattern, it is necessary to loop over twice in each case, and then in the following row, only knit into one of the two loops formed. I don’t know why, but I think it has something to do with transitioning from a purl to a knit stitch with a yarn over between.

** I found that this lace pattern ends up being depressed, so I actually suggest that you choose a different 5-7 stitch lace pattern to use on the arms, and swatch to make sure that you like the effect before starting the sweater.

KNITTING SWEATER:

Cast on 66 stitches on smaller needles, join to work on round.

Work 8 rounds in K2, P1 rib.
Switch to larger needles.

Place different colour marker at start of row, K11, place marker (this will be right arm), K22, increase 1, place marker (this will be front panel), K11, place marker (this will be left arm), K22, increase 1 (row count now 68, with 11 st each per arm, and 23 st each in front and back panels)

START LACE PATTERNS & INCREASE ROWS:

From neckline ribbing to underarm, alternate rows, working one ODD row incorporating odd lace pattern rows (rows 1,3,5, or 7 of lace patterns specified above) then one INCREASE row, which will add stitches along the raglan ‘seam’ lines (during which you will knit all stitches across the lace panels).

Odd Lace Row:

K6, work small lace pattern over center 5 sts, K6, slip marker, K1, work large lace pattern over center 21 sts, K1, slip marker, K6, work small lace pattern over next 5 sts, K6, slip marker, K1, work large lace pattern over center 21 sts, K1

Increase Row:rubysweater-yoke

K1, yo, K to last 1 st before marker, yo, K1, slip marker, yo, knit until lace pattern, then P2, K17, P2, then knit until marker, yo, slip marker, K1, yo, knit to last 1 st before marker, yo, K1, slip marker, yo, knit until lace pattern, then P2, K17, P2, then knit until marker, yo, slip marker. (this increases 8 sts)

Alternate these two rows until front and back panels measure 9 ½” wide (for me this was when front and back panels had 49 stitches).

Put right sleeve stitches on scrap yarn, cast on 3 stitches, work across front panel, put left sleeve stitches on scrap yarn, cast on 3 stitches, and work across back panel.

Work body even from underarms to desired length minus ribbing (about 8” from shoulder). Work in K2, P1 ribbing to desired final length (about 9-9 ½” total from shoulder) – *across lace panels, to maintain purl columns, work P2, then *K2, P1* for 17 sts, then P2*. Bind Off all stitches.

SLEEVES:

Put stitches from holders onto 2 circulars or DPNs

Start round at back of sleeve, knit around, maintaining lace pattern, and pick up and knit one stitch for each cast on stitch at underarm, plus 2 extra stitches, one on either side of picked up stitches.

Work even (or decrease a few stitches as desired) until desired length minus ribbing (about 6” from shoulder). Switch to K2, P1 ribbing, and smaller needles, and work to desired length (about 8” total from shoulder) (* across lace panels, for symmetry, work P1, K3, P1*) note, that to achieve correct multiple for ribbing it may be necessary to decrease a stitch or two.

FINISHING: Weave in yarn ends, wash, dry, and enjoy!

Fetching-fingerlessgloves

Pattern: Fetching fingerless gloves by
Materials: recycled 100% merino yarn, hand-dyed from a warm camel to a variegated orange-red using red food coloring (I used 2 strands of yarn held together to get gauge)
Needles: US #3 and #4 circular needles
~

I really enjoyed knitting these lovely little gloves. I knit them one at a time, using the method for knitting tubes on 2 circular needles. Knitpicks has a good tutorial for this technique here. As I don’t have 2 circulars the same size, I knit with 2 different sizes, US#3 and #4 needles. What I’ve learned since then, is that if you’re working a tube on 2 circular needles with interchangeable tips (as I do), you can put the right sized needle heads on the ‘working’ end of the circular cable, and a size smaller than you want on the ‘holding’ end of the same cable, and so you can arrange to always knit with the right-sized needle, even if you only have 1 set. It’s a useful trick, though using different needle sizes frankly didn’t make ANY difference to this project.

In following the pattern for these gloves, I found that once I reached the end, the gloves didn’t cover as far up to the knuckles as I’d hoped. So I just continued in pattern, turning the cables two more times before casting off. This must be a result of knitting with finer yarn than the pattern called for. They still look really great on, but I do think the original design, with a single cable turn at the knuckles, is classier. I also somehow did a sloppy job at the thumb join, and so there are little holes. But I’m a beginner – and I learned a lot with these gloves: first time cabling, first time knitting a tube on 2 circulars, first time knitting with recycled yarn, first time hand-dyeing with food coloring!! A lot of ‘firsts’ ticked off the list! I wish I had a better picture, because they look great on, but I sent them off as a belated Christmas gift some time ago.

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